Barry,
No Problem. At home I'm using 2003. At work, where I have access to a plotter I'm using an older version. I'll have to speak with my IT team. I think the changed something on my system. I'm sure that I used to have 2003 on there.
Anyway, just wanted to say thanks. Man, you did an excellent job at these drawings. These are going to make this next build a "piece of cake."
I wasn't planning on using a master volume. Is there really any advantage? Also, I was considering one of the new Neodymium speakers (12") to keep the weight down. Have you heard anything about them? I still haven't had an opportunity to actually hear one in action.
Again,
Thanks for a great job on the drawings.
Jim
:)
Jim,
I'm building these amps for studio use. Anyway you look at it 12 to 15 watts is still loud for that purpose. As far as choosing between a master volume or an external attenuator each one has its own effect on the sound. With the attenuator you still get the power tube distortion although you have to boost the highs on the amp to compensate for the loss of that frequency range due to its use. That will probably be my final choice when recording but I thought I'd throw in a PPIMV for extra versatility. The reason I'm using a 1MA pot with a push/pull switch is so I can take the PPIMV completely out of the circuit if I desire which leaves the circuit stock.
By the way, on the stencils, the .022uf 630V cap in the small signal and coupling capacitors stencil was mistakenly labeled .0022. To change it just right click the stencil bar and choose edit stencil, then double click the item and it will open up in an editing window. You can take out the extra 0 there. After you do, click on the "X" of the editing window to close it and answer yes to the pop up for updating the item. When you put a stencil in editing mode you will see a red asterik on the title bar. When you've edited a stencil there will be a little floppy disk icon on the bar. Right click any stencil with that icon and choose "save" to make sure edits are saved. You can create your own objects and drag them into any stencil opened for editing this way. When you add a new item in a stencil it will be assigned a default name like "master 26". To give it a name that makes sense just right click on the item and rename it.
Here's one more tip; to have faceplates made by bnplasers print your Visio faceplate page to a PDF file and send that file to them. They use Corel Draw 12 to run the laser engravers and that program imports PDF nicely. This will save you the $25 set up fee for each plate. I just ordered two sets of the front and back plates in reverse etched black with white letters for $73 total. Jeanne at BNP is awesome to work with. If you don't want master volume just remove it from the Visio layout and give your amp name some more shoulder room. Do whatever you want with the faceplates. Just don't leave "Corona AmpWorks" ;)
Also, please be aware that I moved the on/off toggle and added a standby switch to the back panel of the mojo chassis. This leaves the original hole for the on/off toggle covered by the backplate and I'm drilling two new holes for the new locations. The old ground switch hole is also covered up with plate. The holes for the fuse, speakers, and the tremolo and reverb jacks are in their actual locations per the mojo chassis.
As far as the Neo speakers, I've not tried them. I won't be lugging the amp I keep anywhere as I don't gig so weight is not an issue for me. Tone is my only concern which is why I'm going with a 12" baffle board now for speaker versatility.
Topic: Hoffman Style Board for a Princeton Reverb (Read 43447 times)