Request Suggestions on Building a 5E3 in a Head Cab.

[Platefire]

Got a request to build a 5E3 in head form. I would appreciate recomendations of the best way to do this. I would like to get back with the customer with some options he may chose from. I have some ideas of my own but would like to hear and see what has already been done. Thanks, Platefire

BTW-Attached is one I found on the net I thought was kinda kool. This looks like it
was done with a chassis like Doug offers but it looks like the tubes are vertical instead on the narrow end of a chassis. I would have like to seen more pictures on this one but this was the only one.

[catnine]

 I would mount the tubes vertical rather than hoizontal provided you can do a nice job with a uni-bit of have punches.

 I don't know how far from the narrow end of the chassis you have to do this .

 The tranny's are close to the top and as long as the eyelet board clears and the tubes are not real close to the edge of the narrow end .

 Then you would need to make a plate to cover the old socket holes of course you would have some sort of back panel that at least covered the back of the chassis .

 To do it as stock would require a deep cab and tubes hanging which would not look well or be very sturdy .

[fud]

I built one some years back and used the standard Fender eyelet board layout and the tubes mounted vertically.  I had no problems at all and it sounded like a 5E3 should.  It really lays out like a mini Marshall with the switches on the left and inputs on the right.  I moved the fuse socket to the back next to the power cord to tidey up the front panel.

[phsyconoodler]

I did one a few years back also.It's still rockin'

[Platefire]

What chassis did you use??? I'm thinking that I need the depth front to back to be about 7" or more to have decent working room between front pots to board(1 1/2"), board (3 1/8")to tubes(1"board to socket, 1" for socket spaces) and from tubes sockets to rear(1"). That adds up to 7 5/8".

I'm not seeing the need for 4 inputs. Multi musicians just don't plug into a single amp anymore. One input for each channel to me would work that should bring the height down to 2". I'm thinking a chassis 12" to 16" Long x 8" wide x 2" deep???

Phyco do you have more detailed pictures of that build you could share with me. I like you cab style and I like the tweed one that shown on my original post but----that 4 1/8" wide and haveing to cover up those tweed location tube sockets is making me think this chassis is not the way to go.

Thanks guys, more detailed pictures would be great!!!

[jhadhar65]

Have you seen Weber's 5E3 head?  You might get some ideas from that.

[CraigB]

Hi PlateFire - I just measured my 5E3 built into a Hammond 17x3x4 chassis box.  It's 7-1/4" from the top of the chassis to the bottom of the tubes (russian tung-sols).  I'm pretty sure the repro chassis is around 4" tall as well.  (I'm sure Doug would give you the exact measurements.)  If you plan to use one of those chassis you could hang it like in the original combo, with the inside dimensions of the cabinet being, say, 8".  Perhaps use grill cloth on the front so more air can flow around the tubes. 

I'd like to see it when you get it built, so please post some pictures - Take care, CraigB

[phsyconoodler]

Plate,
  I just used a home-built chassis for that head.My computer crashed a couple of years ago and I lost all my pictures of that head except the one you see there.
   I didn't follow any pre-set size and just built it.It has an MM OT in this one and a Weber PT.
It has seen gig duty since '04 with no failures of any kind.It is truly a gig worthy amp!
  The cool thing about a head is you can plug it into many different speakers and get a cool tone out of each one.
  The four inputs serve more than the 'multiple musician' scenario.You can jumper them and also get a cleaner tone out of the low inputs.
  I made this particular chassis quite large inside so I had lots of room to wire it up.

[catnine]

I've use hammond chassis for a few builds and what I did for extra room was make my own eyelet board using hoffman parts .

 If you make the board narrow like just wide enough to fit the resisters and caps and use F&T caps which are short compared the sprague you can squeak by using a stock 5E3 chassis .

 The thing is you don't need 4 inputs but it is still ok to use them .

 The only issue that may bug be is the tube holes that are already there.

 If you use a hammond chassis you can lay it out the way you want and have a face plate made to look close to the original.

 I used a Allen Amps 5F2-A chassis which is small and it came with a 3" wide board and you had room to build a champ single end or a 6V6 push pull with a ss rectifier. If you use the allen amps TP-25 PT transformer it is small like a champ yet deeper and will run even two 6L6's no sweat .

 I did this with a MM fender bass amp chassis and made the mistake of using  a weber 5E3 eyelet board which fit then I decided to make my own boards after that . The 6G2/5E3 still has the weber eyelet board even though I later would never have done it that way .

 You don't need wide boards like the stock ones where the resisters can't reach the wide boards due to short leads. I did a full 5E3 on a 2" wide eyelet board and had enough room . Or you can built it using stand off's .

 The main thing is if the fellow who wants the build prefers a stock looking 5E3 front panel .

 I had photo's too that went with my dead computer . You might be able to get a faceplate made to look stock and use a hammond chassis .

 The main thing is the room for the tube sockets to clear the eyelet board and allow room for the pots and jacks.

 Draw it out to scale and see what you can use , mark out the socket holes then the pots and jacks then see the room left and then design an eyelet board . You need room in case you need to change a componant or pot .

 Here is a photo of my 6G2 in a MM bass amp chassis with the weber board .   This chassis is the same exact size as a champ AA764 but I could have made an eyelet board an inch narrower.

 This chassis is 15 1/2" long 6 1/2" wide and 1 7/8" deep with a weber eyelet 5E3 eyelet board to give you an idea.

[Platefire]

Thanks for all the help! The pictures of the Fender Chassis helps a bunch!! and gives me a good idea of what kind of room I need in just a normal non-punched chassis. Three basic options I see at this point:

1-Buy a Weber kit like jhadhar65 linked to that would be the fastest-$415.00-That will be a price to measure a scratch build against? May be hard to beat?

2-Use a 5E3 classic like chassis as in the tweed head in first post, build the circuit to fit and build a cab around it. How to make that chassis work is still a fog to me? 

3-Buy a regular non-punched steel or aluminum chassis in the neighborhood of catnine's size chassis, do the layout myself and punch it out myself, order my own parts, build my own turret board and build a cab to fit the chassis. This would be the cheapest parts wise but most labor intensive but I would be able to incorperate more of my own personal touch into.

I guess the next thing is to do some price crunching to see how my scratch built cost stacks up aginst the Weber cost. I need to find out what grade/quality of transformers he wants. Thanks, Platefire

[panhead]

I'm nearly finished with a SE KT66 head. It's pretty compact - I used a 10x6x2 Hammond aluminum chassis. You might want to use a 17x5x3. The controls are on the bottom front face (like laying a tweed on its back). The tubes are mounted vertically, which is nice for a change. I have a wooden piece mounted horizontally 2" up from the bottom across the inside of the front face, so I can slide the chassis under it and up against the front face. This holds the front of the chassis. The back is held with a couple of angle brackets bolted to the chassis and screwed into the floor of the head  cabinet.

[Platefire]

panhead

The blank un-punched chassis is surely the cheapest way to go. I've been re-thinking my pre-concieved hangups and am thinking--whats wrong with horizonal tubes. I have a coverted General Electric PA-20 hi-fi amp that the power section tubes are all horizonal and it works fine. My ST 1482 has  horizonal tubes. So I've been re-looking at Doug's chassis as a real possiblility--the most labor would be the turret board and cab.

[Platefire]

Just following my own inclinations to build it as if I were building it for myself--I think I would do something like this using a 16" W X 8" D x 2" H  steel chassis. 

[panhead]

Mine's a lot like your design except I have the tubes facing up and the controls on the bottom.

[catnine]

Just following my own inclinations to build it as if I were building it for myself--I think I would do something like this using a 16" W X 8" D x 2" H  steel chassis. 

 I think that size chassis is perfect. One suggestion and opinion with the tubes facing up and the chassis at the bottom the heat will not be heating up the inside of the chassis and cause componants to drift from heat . 

 I mean it works fine for all fender amps but there is the heat issue . and mounting the chassis at the top requires so sort of screws to make it secure , it is better to let the cab botttom support the weight of the chassis .

[Platefire]

panhead---thats some nice looking woodwork! Be looking forward to see the final product.

Catnine--Yeah putting the chassis on the bottom would put the heat rising up above the chassis from the tubes. I will seriouly consider that. Again this is just another option--I will lay out about 3 options and let him chose.
The choices will be a kit, use stardard 5E3 Chassis with my cab/board or
my design completly--I do everything. Thankyou, Platefire

[Platefire]

Just wondering what ya'lls opinion on installing a choke in a 5E3 instead of a 5K resistor???

[topbrent]

It tracks a bit faster with the choke.  I have a cheap weber choke in my 5e3 mongrel and it will stay put.

I also doubled the filtering, added the paul-c mod to the PI, changed all .1uf caps to .022uf, and paralleled V1(eliminating one channel).

I need to do the vol-tone mod thing next that smooths the taper of the vol pot.

Yes it isn't a stock 5e3 circuit any longer, but it basically eliminated the flab, kept the crunch, and made the amp much more useable for me.

[panhead]

Just wondering what ya'lls opinion on installing a choke in a 5E3 instead of a 5K resistor???

I've used chokes in just about every amp I've built. If you're not powering the plates with it then you don't need a high mA rated choke. You can get these for cheap money. I think they tighen up the tone of the amp.

BTW, I built this cab to have the tubes facing up, with a fairly tall "ceiling height", so for once the tubes won't be stewing in their own heat.

[Platefire]

Thanks for your input on the choke! It's alway a debate with me, myself and I rather to keep the ciruit all original as an authinic duplicate or add a few bells and whistles. As poo bear was say, "Think, Think, Think". Tiger--I mean Platefire

[panhead]

It's a matter of preference, although I like the additional filtering from the choke. You can get a suitable choke for about 10 bucks, so it might be worth your while to try both and see what sounds better to you.

[punkykatt]

Hey, Topbrent, do you have any info on whats involved with that volume/tone mod  on the 5e3?  Thanks Punky

[topbrent]

Basically it's a two-fer...5e3 and 6g3 tones in the same chassis.  No more volume interactivity, but a bunch of new tone possibilities. 

Better control of the vol taper is a plus.

The mic channel gets changed to a 6g3 deluxe'ish type circuit, with it's own tone control. (Part of the stacked 1M pot)




http://albums.phanfare.com/4823592/2133860#imageID=30163724

Courtesy of S2

[punkykatt]

Great, thanks Topbrent, I have a request to build a 5e3 type circuit into a S/S Marshall 1-12 combo amp. I think this mod will work out great for the guy. 

Punky

[Platefire]

I've been looking at Transformers for the 5E3. From what I'm seeing to keep the tweed voltages you would need to stay with the 325/325 70mA like Doug's 125P1B but he hasn't got it labled as for a tweed deluxe? The next one up would be a step up to Blackface/Silverface power. What have ya'll  been using?  ???

[panhead]

I've been looking at Transformers for the 5E3. From what I'm seeing to keep the tweed voltages you would need to stay with the 325/325 70mA like Doug's 125P1B but he hasn't got it labled as for a tweed deluxe? The next one up would be a step up to Blackface/Silverface power. What have ya'll  been using?  ???

As long as it's the right voltage and mA rating, and fits on the chassis, I wouldn't worry about what it's labelled.

[Platefire]

Allright Panhead, thanks. I've been looking for a picture of a 5E3 head where they used a standard
5E3 chassis like Doug sells in a head with the tubes horizonal but can't find one. I think that's the way
the Weber 5E3 heads are build but I can't find a picture example no where. Have you seen such an animal? Platefire

[panhead]

Allright Panhead, thanks. I've been looking for a picture of a 5E3 head where they used a standard
5E3 chassis like Doug sells in a head with the tubes horizonal but can't find one. I think that's the way
the Weber 5E3 heads are build but I can't find a picture example no where. Have you seen such an animal? Platefire

Sorry, but I haven't. Others here could probably tell you better, because I do my own layouts from schematics and drill and punch my own chassis.

[tyru007]

I used the AX84 chassis drill template as a guide to build a champ but I also drilled the extra octal and 9 pin.  This chassis template is based on a standard Hamond 16x8x2 aluminum or steel chassis.   Very easy to turn into a 5E3 head template.

http://www.ax84.com/static/chassis/AX84_Kit_Chassis_1_Drill_Plan_080507.pdf

Lots of head cabinet plans around the internet for this size box.

You could also buy the steel 16 X 8 X 2 chassis along with the bottom cover plate and steel cage cover for it.   



Looks tall in the PIC but that becuase its on a very small chassis.  Cage is 16 x 8 x 5.5"

Paint it whatever color you want, add some rubber feet and some cabinet handles on the side and you get a nice professional looking head setup.    (and you dont have to build a cab for it)

 

[punkykatt]

Plate, I have had good results with Webers WO25130 power tranformers for 5e3 builds.  The trannys have taps for 120v and 125v primarys and taps for two B+ secondary voltages 270-0-270 and 340-0-340 @ 150mA, With those taps you have many options for different voltages. Also 6.3v @ 5A, 5v @ 3A. 

Regards:  Punky

[Platefire]

Yeah the AX84 reminds me of my Dukane 5F6A---I'm waiting to hear back from my customer who lives in another state for direction on how to approch this-many options. If he comes back and says to do it what ever way I think best, I'll probably get the 2" x 8" x 16" chassis from AES and build a cab like the attached drawing. 

[crashtm1]

I put my 5e3 chassis in a Fender reverb cabinet.... perfect fit...

[mister ed]

This is a two- input 5E3 that I  built recently, ( no faceplate yet ).... just to show that if a verticle - mount PT is used, a 12x8x2 Hammond chassis works fine.

[Platefire]

Customer wants me to proceed as I see best--so I'm proceeding with the previous plan as shown in my sketch. I want the chassis on top so the power cord and other items musicians tote around can rest happily in the bottom of the head cab.

Got a Question---on the end of heater wiring at V1---if you extended that wiring from that point outside of chassis to a #47 bulb mounted outside underneath the outside chassis with a switch on one leg to make it switchable---would that cause have any negative effect on the normal operation of the heaters??? I'm thinking about having images cut in the form of holes through the front wood panel underneath chassis that the light would shine through. The flat black painted wood panel would be covered with speaker grill cloth and the holes would be basicly invisable behind grill cloth but when you switch on the light it would become highly visable through the grill cloth. Also the images would serve a second purpose to allow ventilation through panel underneath chassis to help tubes stay cool. I can't think of any negative effects other than the extra draw of the Ma with the extra bulb.

[AZJimC]

How about a few blue led's buried in the wood, along with the wires inset into the wood, and a single resistor to set the correct voltage for the whole string? Add some color to it that way for nearly no power at all, tho a #47 isn't that much either.

Jim

[Platefire]

Hi Jim, thanks!

 Well my plan is----I Think!-to tweed the head cab and on the front panel put vintage red/yellow/brown speaker grill cloth where the head would look like a mini tweed amp---so I'm not sure blue would look good shinning through that grill cloth. So I just wanted to let the grill cloth be the coloring.
  I can't think of a reason why extending the heater circuit outside the chassis from the end of the circuit line at V1. One wire would go from 12ax pin 4 & 5 to a SPST switch, then outside chassis to the #47 bulb/mounting and the other wire from 12ax pin 9 twisted together with the other directly to the bulb. This would be mounted right in front of the carved out image in the front panel hidden behind the grill cloth. Unless I'm missing something this should be an easy no brainer?
  Also I'm interested to making a custom face plate for the front of my 2" H x 16" wide chassis. I would like to go beyond my normal lable maker machine lettering I just stick to the front of the chassis but would like to have an additional plate with numbers for chicken head pot controls and lettering over pots/switches that could be attached to front of my chassis. Does anybody know where you can buy a kit or something to create a face plate or a custom maker who can make them to order at a reasonable price? A thin 2" x 16" piece of brass that could be drilled out with decals that could be added to pot/switch holes would be great!
  Being this is my first ever scratch build for a customer, I do want it to look and operate kinda professional and be roadworthy. Randy travels a whole lot, so this amp will be seen and heard by a lot of folks. Thanks again for all your help, Platefire

[Boots Deville]

Faceplates - I'd check with local sign makers and engravers.  I live near "LooseChange" and we've both been able to find local sources that seem to be more economical than the places I've seen online.  I seem to remember he uses a sign maker and gets 'em done for about $20 a pop, and has to drill the holes out himself.  I've gone to a local engraver a couple times, that has a $100 minimum, for which I usually get four faceplates (two fronts and two backs) and four to six etched acrylic name plates with my logo.  This guy cuts the holes with the laser, so I don't need to drill the faceplates.  So you might want to see what's available near you.

I've recently been experimenting with screen printing my own faceplates.  I'm screen printing on the backside of clear acrylic (plexi).  It does work out to be cheaper, and I don't have to wait on someone else's schedule to get my plates made.  There is a learning curve involved, which I'm sill in the midst of.  Let me know if you'd like more info, or like me to snap some pix to upload.

-John

[Platefire]

OK, thanks a bunch John

I am going to draw out what I want the faceplate to look like on CAD. Then I can post it here and also take it down to the local sign/trophy shops to see what they can do. I'm not will to spend $100.00 on it, 20 would be more like it. Platefire

[Platefire]

I've been drawing my board for this on CAD Bently Microstation. As I re-design the board for my needs, I can't help but wonder about a couple of things---:

1-One the original Fender 5E3 Schematic the 16uf/475 filer cap grounds are not all connected together. The first filter cap and cathode resistor & bypass cap's grounds are connected. Then a gap! The the second two 16/475 FC are connected. Why are not the whole shooting match of filter cap grounds connected together since they are adjacent to each other??? Is there a reason for the seperation?

2-Also on heater wiring. I don't know why but I don't think anybody wires  heaters like the Fender Drawing anymore--only using one hot and the grounds go directly pin to chassis. I would think the way to go is with the two 100 Ohm resistors to ground with two wires to all the tubes.

3-Also I ordered a steel chassis but started wondering if I had made a bad choice after the fact. Aluminum don't rust but I was thinking this steel is subject to rust. I guess I was trying to be classic minded but now not so sure that was a good idea!!! What's the issues in using steel chassis as opposed to aluminum.

Thanks, Platefire 

[panhead]

What's the issues in using steel chassis as opposed to aluminum.

Steel is obviously stronger, but it needs protection from corrosion, like paint or powder coat. Aluminum is easier to drill and punch. I use both, myself. Some people say that since aluminum is non-magnetic you get the shielding effect without eddy currents or "conduction" of the magnetic fields of the transformers. I can't tell the difference.

[Dynaflow]

 When it comes to like Hammond chassis's the aluminum ones are sufficient for smaller iron, but building a 100 watt monster tends to make them want to sag and steel might be a better choice than say a Champ with little transformers and less sockets and/or cap can's punched into them. Vintage Marshall amps that I've seen notoriously have sagged and you see the transformers leaning in a bit. If your using Aluminum and heavier iron, thicker is obviously better. Just something to think about.

Regards,

Dyna

Ps: On bullet #1 you asked about why grounds are split out, its my understanding and having a amp wired like that, that I had to change, it can make the amp hum when the grounds from like the preamps are grounded to the same point as that first cap.

[Platefire]

Thanks, Man I wish I had got the Alum Chassis because I really don't want to paint it.

I have attached a pdf of my board/chassis layout plan. I would appreciate your review and comments
on it to identify any hairs in the milk.

Also I would like to hear some options on the two channels with one tone control---I was thinking an easy one would be to switch the 500p connection off with a SPST to volume 1 to make it a raw channel---also a possibility is to leave off the bright cap wire to volume 1 and just put a switchable bright cap on the pot.
I'm looking for good options to make the two channel more versitile but not change the basic 5E3 circuit.
I would appreciate your ideas and input on this. Thanks, Platefire

[Platefire]

The Hammond steel chassis came in and is pre-painted light gray, perfect!

I still would appreciate a review/comments on my layout. Bare in mind I'm not trying to follow the original fender board layout perzackly but trying to retain the original vintage circuit with the exception of adding a choke and reducing/changing input jacks/grid resistors. I think's it OK but two heads are better than one. Please take time to click on the attached pdf a have a look. Thanks, Platefire

[sluckey]

Layout basically looks good to me. I didn't check the board layout for errors. I would move the OT to the right so it's sitting directly above the cathode resistor/cap for the output tubes. Slip the choke to the left just enough for the OT move.

[FYL]

1-One the original Fender 5E3 Schematic the 16uf/475 filer cap grounds are not all connected together. The first filter cap and cathode resistor & bypass cap's grounds are connected. Then a gap! The the second two 16/475 FC are connected. Why are not the whole shooting match of filter cap grounds connected together since they are adjacent to each other??? Is there a reason for the seperation?

Clean vs. dirty ground. Preamp stages should be grounded as close to the input jack as possible, power stages to the PS center tap(s) as close as possible to mains earth (not the same as a ground, even if interconnected).

Check http://www.el34world.com/charts/grounds.htm for more info.

2-Also on heater wiring. I don't know why but I don't think anybody wires  heaters like the Fender Drawing anymore--only using one hot and the grounds go directly pin to chassis. I would think the way to go is with the two 100 Ohm resistors to ground with two wires to all the tubes.

Fender saved a couple of feet of wire per amp... Use proper heater wiring practices as you mention.

Also from the lib : http://www.el34world.com/charts/CommonHookups.htm

You may also consider lifting heaters above 0V if you've got some residual hum - it's usually not required in a low gain amp but you never know.

What's the issues in using steel chassis as opposed to aluminum.

Steel is slightly more difficult to work with, can induce some magnetic-related noises and is a poorer heat conductor than aluminum. No real issues. OTOh it's much more rigid for the same thickness.

[Platefire]

Thanks Slukey and FLY for your feedback

Yeah the OT transformer/choke could all slide down to the right a bit---the leads will only go so far--har! I was planning on running the leads to the speaker and power tube plates outside the chassis to a hole close to the speaker jack and output tubes. That worked well on the Pacer DR project and provides some seperation in wiring.

  On the grounding I followed the link to Dougs grounding drawing and ran a copy for ready reference. As far as the steel chassis being pre-painted which is a real help but I was thinking I probably need to sand it down to bare metal on the inside where gounding Lugs through chassis will be.

Think I've got everything worked out how I want it to go. A couple of things still up in the air are:
1-Haven't decided what to do to the two channels to give a little flexability and versatility so you wouldn't have the same thing on both channels. Don't want to do anything to take away from the 5E3 response. Giving a serious consideration of Topbrents arrangment with a stacked 1 meg pot. I'm just wondering about the two additional 220K resistors in effecting gain? or what is their purpose.
2-I would like to have a custom face plate but don't want to spend a $$$.
A piece of antique brass 1/16"x2"x16 would be a good starting place.
3-Need a good source of real tweed at a reasonable price. I've got the vintage speaker cloth to cover the wood panel below the chassis front but haven't got enough tweed to cover the head.
4-On the back side of the head, still deliberating on the best way to do a back panel/panels to allow you to stash the power cord and other stuff in the back bottom of head without it dumping out when the head is tilted back and also provide protection to the exposed tubes.
5-I'm thinking I should go ahead and include 470 Ohm screen resistors on power tubes.

Thanks a bunch for your help, Platefire

BTW-Merry Christmas All

[Dynaflow]

 For something perhaps cheaper than Brass (unless you have like a surplus store, when I lived in Sacramento we had a place with scrap metal and bolts so it was fairly cheap to find, here in Pho not so much) might be using thin plexi and spraying the back with gold paint. I've done this several times and it works a treat. I generally use Rustoleum Metalic gold and it gives a plexi like look, you could also easily use a brass or copper color (or whatever color, fluorescent orange if you wanted haha..). I typically find Plexi at Home Depot.
 You could hang the chassis upside down and have the cutout at the top ala Matchless for example and leave room at the bottom for chords. I know its always a PITA with my Marshall superlead head to have the damn chord tucked under the handle because there's nowhere else to put it. Just a thought.

Regards,

Dyna

[Platefire]

If I were using black tolex instead of tweed, the light gray chassis color would be fine and just stick some decals on that but---with tweed it needs to be a brass or gold tent or maybe even shinny chrome with decals. I plan to use the brass finish screws and matching washers on the cab--that goes real good with tweed. I was thinking some antique brass from a door kick plate might work. Might go by Lowes and see what they got. If I don't come up with some suitable metal, painting will definatly be the ticket.

Actually I spent about an hour in a flea market today that just has tons of old stuff but all I came up with two metal serving trays I got for a dollar that has some kind of anti corrosive metal--either alumium or brass. I'll have to scrape it down to the bare metal to see what it is. The thickness is just right. Platefire

[FYL]

1-Haven't decided what to do to the two channels to give a little flexability and versatility so you wouldn't have the same thing on both channels. Don't want to do anything to take away from the 5E3 response. Giving a serious consideration of Topbrents arrangment with a stacked 1 meg pot.

Play with the time constants, keep a tweedy channel with near stock values, use the other one with a lower cathode cap (680n, Marshall-style can give excellent results)- coupling caps should be lowered from 100n to 47n (if you mainly use single coils) or 22n (hums) in order to reduce/eliminate farting.

I'm just wondering about the two additional 220K resistors in effecting gain? or what is their purpose.

They form a resistive mixer. There's a slight signal drop, nothing really significative.

[Platefire]

FLY

Your got me a little confused with the "n" designation on your caps. Guess I need to go back and review my charts. Only delt with "uf" and "pf" lately---everything else fades into the vauge catagory, har! only thing I remember about "n" is something like nanoferits???

But I assume the changes your talking about on bypass caps will provide more gain and the coupeling caps---more bottom??? Thanks, Platefire