Tele neck on Strat body... how-to?

[bluesbear]

I was always under the impression that Strat and Tele neck pockets are identical. Well... I just bought a Tele neck for my Strat. It seems that Strat necks are rounded at the end and Tele's are square! You can put a Strat neck on a Tele but not the other way around. Am I correct in assuming that the corners of the neck pocket on the Strat have to be squared off for the Tele neck to fit? If there's more to it, does anyone know how it's done?
Thanks,
Dave

[rob440]

The neck pockets are the same depth the diffence being the radius so yout tele neck wont go deep enough into your strats body. Theres two options you could sqaure the strats pocket to fit the neck. or put the strat radius on the tele neck. Which piece is more valuable? I think thats a 7 1/2'' rad in the end of a strat neck. Probably the easiest way is to get a neck pocket routing template, not the one from stew mac as I believe its oversized, and do the body. If your neck has a fingerboard extention you could sand the radius with a belt sander after marking it out with a homade template, or maybe make a masonite template and route the radius on the neck. I hope this helps and makes sense, show us the results of your telestratser when your done.

[tubenit]

Rob440 gave you the right answer.

It's not a big deal getting these to match. You simply either have some routing or sanding to do. I would lean towards sanding and rounding the Tele neck personally because I think it's  easier. I used a dremel tool and emory board.

I went thru the same thing buying a Warmoth Tele neck to fit on my Tele which has the neck cutout set up for a strat.  

Be sure you seal the small amount of exposed wood with lacquer or urethane. Small artist brush will do it for you.

Obviously your concern is intonation and a nice tight fit into the neck cavity. When I was done the intonation was excellent. No problem.

Tubenit

[heresrobert]

Dave,

From a wookworking perspective, it would be easier to reshape the neck as apposed to repocketing the body. Rob440 hit it right on with his thoughts. Sight unseen, I would use 1/4 or 1/2" hard board and shape the exact fit that you want for the heel. I would also put in the screw holes. Next would be to use a good amount of double stick tape and press the neck to the HB/masonite. Check your alignment and screw holes several times. You only have one chance. On a router table use a straight cutting bit with a bearing on the bottom of the bit. Gently route your neck to the shape of the hardboard/masonite. A sharp bit and light passes are essential. I hope you have good wood skills. I did this to re-taper a bolt on neck that was too wide at the heel. Man was I stressed until it was done and verified accurate.

Robert

[bluesbear]

Hi. I have and can use a router but I'm a lot more confident with wood chisels (more experience). This body is chopped up anyway due to the fact I've used every combination of pickups known over the years. I'll look them over real close and decide which method will work for me.
Thanks!!!
Dave

[jjasilli]

Template & router is a good choice.  But in my nearby thread - First Parts Strat - I did it with parts on hand:  dremel tool in a router base; and makeshift template using a spare piece of 1/4" oplywood as a mask over the neck pocket, with side rails held in place with double sided tape.  

I used a dremel bit the same diameter as a large diameter dremel bit shaft.  I needed to make 3 passes at three different depths to get to the bottom of the neck pocket in the body. Set the depth of the bit for the first cut. With the dremel tool unplugged, place the bit against one side side of the pocket; abd set that side's rail agaionst the base of the router.  Do the same for the other side.  For the fron of the pocket, place the bit against the CENTER of te pocket; align the fraont rail against the base of the router  The rails keep you from over cutting

Plug in the dremel tool; turn it on; run the router base along the rails and carve out a more square pocket.  Check the neck for a test fit.  When happy, lower the bit depth and cut again; then a third time to reach the bottom of the pocket.  I used a small rounded sculptor's chisel to finish the shape of the curves.  

This came out real well and I was able to use tools and materials on hand.  And I'm no cabiney maker or luthier by any means.  Templates are expensive, and like bluesbear I wasn't expecting this neck fitting issue; and don't plan to do it again.

[jjasilli]

Template & router is a good choice.  But in my nearby thread - First Parts Strat - I did it with parts on hand:  dremel tool in a router base; and makeshift template using a spare piece of 1/4" oplywood as a mask over the neck pocket, with side rails held in place with double sided tape.  

I used a dremel bit the same diameter as a large diameter dremel bit shaft.  I needed to make 3 passes at three different depths to get to the bottom of the neck pocket in the body. Set the depth of the bit for the first cut. With the dremel tool unplugged, place the bit against one side side of the pocket; abd set that side's rail agaionst the base of the router.  Do the same for the other side.  For the fron of the pocket, place the bit against the CENTER of te pocket; align the fraont rail against the base of the router  The rails keep you from over cutting

Plug in the dremel tool; turn it on; run the router base along the rails and carve out a more square pocket.  Check the neck for a test fit.  When happy, lower the bit depth and cut again; then a third time to reach the bottom of the pocket.  I used a small rounded sculptor's chisel to finish the shape of the curves.  

This came out real well and I was able to use tools and materials on hand.  And I'm no cabiney maker or luthier by any means.  Templates are expensive, and like bluesbear I wasn't expecting this neck fitting issue; and don't plan to do it again.