Does anyone know on a speaker all thing the same except the mag size?

[catnine]

 I have done many seachers but even on webers site I can't seem to find an answer . What difference will a 20 oz mag have compared to a 10 oz magnet ?

[PRR]

Makes the speaker heavier.

Price will be higher.

There is NOT a simple answer to this.

Like: I'm building a garage foundation. I can use 10 tons of concrete. I can use 20 tons of concrete. What is the difference?

The 20-ton might be stronger. OTOH the 10-ton may be strong enough for a garage, and leave more budget for stronger studs and rafters. Or I may need 20 tons just to get past the peat, muck, and wet clay to solid earth, but it could be really cheezy concrete.

[catnine]

Makes the speaker heavier.

Price will be higher.

There is NOT a simple answer to this.

Like: I'm building a garage foundation. I can use 10 tons of concrete. I can use 20 tons of concrete. What is the difference?

The 20-ton might be stronger. OTOH the 10-ton may be strong enough for a garage, and leave more budget for stronger studs and rafters. Or I may need 20 tons just to get past the peat, muck, and wet clay to solid earth, but it could be really cheezy concrete.

 I should have been more clear . I was in a hurry , I was comparing the weber sig 10 s ceramic to a Jensen  C10R . By the time I get one out of the cab and install the other it's to the point where I can't tell which sounds better or which I want to sound better.

[HotBluePlates]

I strongly suggest trying to find someone with the speaker of interest already on hand. Try before you buy, or you may have an expensive item you really don't like.

And you're right that you will not remember the fine differences after you get one speaker out of the cabinet and install the other.

There is an option, but it may only apply well to Weber speakers, unless you can find frequency curves for other speakers. Somewhere, I have an article in which a guy describes a recording and/or playback program which will allow you to do some detailed EQ adjustment. You take a sound sample with which you are familiar, and run it through the program with the EQ curve of your speaker in effect. You will need (likely) some good headphones, because you computer's internal or desktop speakers will likely color things significantly. Next, you input a different EQ curve matching the new speaker of interest. Compare the sonic difference of the two.

You will probably know what you're hearing in your present speaker that you don't like. You can compare the changes audibly before buying the new speaker. However, this method will not tell you things like how the speaker responds at a given amount of power input (speaker distortion).

Unfortunately, it requires that you be able to obtain frequency curves for your speaker of interest. Maybe you can find them, or maybe you can't.

[catnine]

I strongly suggest trying to find someone with the speaker of interest already on hand. Try before you buy, or you may have an expensive item you really don't like.

And you're right that you will not remember the fine differences after you get one speaker out of the cabinet and install the other.

There is an option, but it may only apply well to Weber speakers, unless you can find frequency curves for other speakers. Somewhere, I have an article in which a guy describes a recording and/or playback program which will allow you to do some detailed EQ adjustment. You take a sound sample with which you are familiar, and run it through the program with the EQ curve of your speaker in effect. You will need (likely) some good headphones, because you computer's internal or desktop speakers will likely color things significantly. Next, you input a different EQ curve matching the new speaker of interest. Compare the sonic difference of the two.

You will probably know what you're hearing in your present speaker that you don't like. You can compare the changes audibly before buying the new speaker. However, this method will not tell you things like how the speaker responds at a given amount of power input (speaker distortion).

Unfortunately, it requires that you be able to obtain frequency curves for your speaker of interest. Maybe you can find them, or maybe you can't.

 The bit issue is this is a SE amp . I can run the weber sig 10s ceramic through my 6g2/5E3 and thought the cab the champ is in and it sounds fine . But them the 6G2/5E3 is a different animal all together. The only experience I have had with a champ and basically a AA764 Sf circuit was using weber sig 8s alnicos or a weber sig 10s alnico and the both sounded fine . other than that all speakers have been twelves from either eminence or jensen , and so for the jensen vintage now RI series sounded like crap to me , the jensen mod series seem to be a much better speaker , again they were all through push/pull 6V6 fender amps . I once had all sorts of twelves on hand and tried a few tens but they were also through push/pull amps like a fender Pro Jr . These days sorry to say I don';t know anyone close to me who had speakers to try out . and I don't have the funds to spend on speakers and i do agree with what you are saying. I have this pignose 6 inch speaker form a old pignosehog 20 that sounded great in that amp and thought about placing it in the side of the cab my home brew champ is in but that was a ss amp. What I do know is that the weber sig 8s alnico sounded great and the weber sig 10s alnico sounded great even in a larger cab than a stock champ . Yet I am not ready to spend then try to sell . This weber sig 10s ceramic sounds stiff to me and the trade off using the jensen C10R is the Jensen seems to offer a better or more open bottom end , yet it has highs that sound shrill. I used to have all sorts of OD pedals , blues driver and TS.9 I tested each one out with a A?B box or pedal and the one that stood out the most was the Austin gold by rocktron. It was not too much but just right . I never needed full on  gain just an edge . I can use that whcih i have to color the tone of the champ with that and dial in an acceptable tone . I must have had ten OD pedals all promising something  yet it all depends on so many factors . To my ears in the same room with the same amp I A/B's them all to the one I liked the best the austin gold and found all sounded so close , all had a very similar far too much gain with little movement of the three control knobs that the austin gold was the best and most useable to my ears. The blues driver was a more say pipe sounding OD the TS-9 was more edgy nad bright yet thay all had one thing in common , half way was too much It's sort of like speakers , and the .amp. I kept the austin gold because it offered more control and a less OD way so you could control what you got out of it better , where the gain was not a touch from little to too much . I had the old red round fuzz face and the EH army green box and they all had a similar affect. I used to have distortion pedals which were far too much like the boss  then discoverd OD pedals . Man did I go off topic but you know what I mean.

[Frankenamp]

I have a real short answer: It don't matter.

Much longer explanation: What matters is how efficiently the magnetic lines of force (Gauss) get herded into the magnetic gap of the speaker. Then how tight is the gap, how long or short is the voice coil, how much does the moving mass weigh, how tight or loose is the suspension? An AlNiCo magnet is (depending on the formula and grade) generally stronger than a ceramic magnet- but much more expensive and will be even more so now that the commies (here) have locked up our rare earth sources so that the commies (there) can charge more for their product...     Oops, better keep it civil

Basically what you are looking for is a modern replica of a 'built down to a price' speaker. Usually pre-Williamson amplifier thus having a fairly light cone, stiff suspension, narrow magnetic gap, and a small, short voice coil. These speakers were usually good for a hand-full of watts. The industrial models were good for 30-50 watts. Voice coils were from 3/4" to 1,3/8" you might find a whopping 2" VC on the commercial models.  This was long before Jim Lansing's behemoth 4" voice coils. The glues, materials, and construction have been beefed up to handle the increased wattage of (more) modern amp designs (like the Williamson) using 6L6's KT88's and 6550's

I think Eminence has put their marketing guys to work characterizing various 'tones' of popular "vintage" speakers.

[jojokeo]

I should have been more clear . I was in a hurry , I was comparing the weber sig 10 s ceramic to a Jensen  C10R . By the time I get one out of the cab and install the other it's to the point where I can't tell which sounds better or which I want to sound better.

"or which I want to sound better" <-That's an odd statement

It's common to have a hard time distinguishing speaker differences w/ the time it takes simply plugging and unplugging cabs in let alone actually changing them in the same cab. It wasn't until using an A/B box to literally switch on the fly that the differences were much more realized. It wasn't until this that you really could hear all of the distinct differences. You could also hear much more of the subtle nuances in characteristics when played at very loud or moderate volumes, clean or overdriven settings, slow or fast, chords or single notes, light picking or digging in, etc...

[catnine]

I should have been more clear . I was in a hurry , I was comparing the weber sig 10 s ceramic to a Jensen  C10R . By the time I get one out of the cab and install the other it's to the point where I can't tell which sounds better or which I want to sound better.

"or which I want to sound better" <-That's an odd statement

It's common to have a hard time distinguishing speaker differences w/ the time it takes simply plugging and unplugging cabs in let alone actually changing them in the same cab. It wasn't until using an A/B box to literally switch on the fly that the differences were much more realized. It wasn't until this that you really could hear all of the distinct differences. You could also hear much more of the subtle nuances in characteristics when played at very loud or moderate volumes, clean or overdriven settings, slow or fast, chords or single notes, light picking or digging in, etc...

 Allow me to clarify the ODD statement you refer to . It is quite simple . I got the jensen C10R years ago maybe 2002 used and cheap . Then I went and got a weber sig 10 s ceramic figuring what have I got to lose , the weber has GOT to be  better speaker. By ther time the shipping costs were added in and since even after break in the weber sig 10 s really sounded worse IMHO than the jensen .

 I have no way of A/B ing speakers yet I have a good ear and since weber at the time was out of sig10 s alnicos I went with the ceramic being told it would sound better than the Jensen , yet weber does not  show anything other than a basic description .

 So yes I wanted the weber to produce a better sound since that is what I was told through an email which is long lost forever.

 As soon I replaced the jensen with the weber I could hear a difference yet felt it needed time to break in , well time changed little and there you have your answer.

[jojokeo]

One thing about speakers for sure is that it's really hard to know how they perform and sound until you hear them for yourself in person. Websites can only get so close and they're not like the real thing at all. I understand what you meant now. Thanks